Renaissance Bakery & Cafe - Mapo

  
The entry of foreign big corp spots like McDonalds, Burger King, Costco and the spread of Korean chains like Emart, Paris Baguette and Hansot has changed the market forever in Korea. Local grocers in traditional markets often voice their complaints and have even managed to push through rules on large supermarkets to close at certain hours and at least two Sundays a month. Many mom-and-pop stores and restaurants were driven out of the market due to the bigger chains.
  
However, one place that withstood the competition, and actually thrived with it, was a bakery called Renaissance Bakery & Café. Established in 1982, Renaissance has grown larger by the year. Currently they have two bakeries just a few minutes’ walk from Mapo station. Having started in a tiny bakery back in 1982, they have now grown and the couple that runs the bakery bought the whole building the bakery is located in to dedicate it all to bread-baking.
   
The couple’s zeal and love for baking shines through in both the flavor of the pastries but is also evident if you have a conversation with them. The husband has traveled around the world, especially to France and Japan, to study baking techniques. If you visit Renaissance bakery, he will surely be eager to hear your suggestions and comments about the bakery.
  
The main store is very roomy and can host several groups at the same time. The interior is very quaint with vintage looking furniture juxtaposed with modern lighting. But the spotlight of the bakery is right in the middle of the room, namely the rows upon rows of delicious pastries. One thing that will certainly catch your eye as you enter is the assortment of homemade jams that they sell. Next to regular players like strawberry and apricot we see unique flavors like Earl Grey jam and green tea jam. These jams are the perfect substitute to the Nutella jar that you are probably nibbling on every morning.
  
Next, your eyes will surely wander to the array of colors of the various tarts. Apple, blueberry almond, strawberry, pecan, pistachio apricot, blueberry cheese…and the list goes on. The base dough is different for every tart to match the filling. Apart from tarts, they have your regular pastries like castella, sponge cake, sweet bean paste pastries and other sweet pastries. Among the latter, make sure not to miss the Mont Blanc, which here is like a big sweet croissant that will crumble in a lovely way all over your arm while you eat it, but oh my is it worth it!
  
It is evident that the owners have had more than 30 years to perfect their pastries. Every item is a doughy pocket of love and the drinks are just as tasty.
   
Info
Addresses:
1) 큰우물로점: 서울시 마포구 큰우물로 39. Tel: 02-716-2808
2) 토정로점: 서울시 마포구 토정로 282. Tel: 02-715-2808

Business hours: Around 8:30 – 11PM (Closed Sundays)
Store 1
Store 2

(Swedish) På toppen av Jongro Tower – Top Cloud

I flera år har jag undrat vad som gömmer sig inuti tornet vid Jonggak Station på linje 1 i Seoul. Tornet, som har smeknamn som ”Ananastornet” och ”UFO-tornet”, är ett landmärke som man lätt även kan använda som riktmärke när man går vilse på Seouls gator. Hade jag vetat att det finns en restaurang högst upp i tornet så hade jag snart avfärdat den med fördomen att det säkert kostar mer än det smakar.
  
Beroende på ens budget så är det mycket möjligt att just detta stämmer. Hursomhelst, har man de finansiella förutsättningarna att spendera en halv dagslön på en buffé, så kan jag varmt rekommendera Top Cloud.
 
Min första fråga till servitören var var man kan ta de bästa fotona i restaurangen. När kan blixtsnabbt svarade ”På toaletten” så trodde mitt svenska jag att jag fick en känga med sarkasm för att det var en så pass schablonartad fråga som han säkert fått femtioelva gånger. Med en bitter eftersmak av det rappa svaret så frågade jag istället maître d' vid ingången, och hon svarade likadant. Jag antog att min knaggliga koreanska hade gjort att hon missuppfattade min fråga, men tillslut trillade polletten ned. Toaletten består mestadels av ett gigantiskt handfat och glasväggar där man kan se en stor del av Seoul. Onekligen det bästa (och mest bekväma...) stället att ta bra landskapsbilder ifrån.
  
Efter tre paragrafer utan att ens ha nämnt maten så är det dags att dissekera Top Clouds buffé. Det är en ganska internationell affär med potatisgratäng, ceviche, revbensspjäll, pasta, ankkött, rökt lax, sushi, sallad och dylikt. Det finns ett par koreanska alternativ, men jag gillade att hela världen var representerad på sätt och vis och att menyn inte betonade ett särskilts lands mat. Favoriten var helt klart potatisgratäng á la dauphinoise, men det kanske har mindre att göra med kvaliteten och mer med att det var över ett år sedan jag besökte Sverige och hade tillgång till en konventionell ugn.
 
Var medvetna om att buffé slutar runt 20.00-20.30 och rätterna försvinner illa kvickt från borden. Servitörerna var lite dåliga om att informera om det, så vi kan knappt att rycka till oss lite tiramisu och äpplepaj innan allt var borta.
 
Med buffén ingår även ett val av varmrätt. Lax, lamm eller nötkött kan man välja mellan, och några vegetariska alternativ finns ej. Det tog lite tid för servitören att inse att inga sorters kött fungerade för min vän som äter vegetariskt. Efter mycket om och men hittade de en lösning där kocken hittade på en spaghettirätt baserad på tomat, men den var inte speciellt annorlunda gentemot rätten som redan fanns på buffébordet.
  
Mitt lamm å andra sidan var utsökt! Vid sidan om fanns en klick med potatismos och en geléliknande puré gjord på mynta. Lite yoghurt på det hade stillat mitt behov av medelhavsmat i flera veckor framöver.
 
När allt kommer omkring så är Top Cloud ett perfekt ställe att ha en romantisk middag på. Det är något speciellt med att äta middag med sin käresta när båda blickar faller över stadens nattljus. Ett besök till Top Cloud kommer säkerligen ligga kvar i minnet under lång tid framöver.
 
Öppettider
Buffét: 12-14:30 / 18-20:30
Grill: 12-14:30 / 18-22
Café och bar: 12-midnight
Telefonnummer: +82-2-2198-3300
Adress: 33F, Jongro Tower 51, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Oublier – Forget yourself in this Itaewon station cafe

Sibling love is a strange thing. Growing up with a sibling, you often quarrel a lot in your younger days but find yourself becoming more and more similar to each other in terms of hobbies, music taste and personality. No matter how much you fight, there is a kind of unwritten rule that you automatically make up within 24 hours even if no one utters the words ”sorry”.
So why, you ask me, am I talking about love between a brother and sister in a cafe interview? You might guess it, but the owners of the cafe ”Oublier” are members of the same family and the cafe is their first attempt at running an establishment together. Their past experiences complement each other perfectly. The younger family member, Kenny, is a tea sommelier (I barely knew that profession even existed) and the older sister, Amy, is a patissier with the experience under her belt of having worked together with one of the most famous Korean chefs, recently famous on TV (his name escapes me).
As a tea sommelier, hours upon hours of training and testing lies behind the selection of teas at Oublier. Kenny will be happy to reveal why black teas go well with tangy desserts and oolong tea goes better the cafe’s parade dish – the Cannoli. He will also reveal just exactly what makes oolong tea different from green tea (actually, the answer is the level of oxidation), since in most Westerners minds they are all the same. Usually the owners lets the customers choose either a drink or a dessert they want to try and then recommend the best drink/dessert to accompany that choice.
Being skeptical to wine sommeliers from the get-go, I first took Kenny’s recommendation with a grain of salt. But after trying to Grapefruit Meringue Tart in combination with the Taipei Pine black tea, I noticed how the tea takes the edge off the inherent bitterness of the grapefruit, and I was made into a believer of the tea sommelier profession! You can really taste how fresh the grapefruit in the tart is, and you soon realize how much better Oublier is than your regular run-of-the-mill places like Starbucks Coffee or Angel-in-Us.
While conversing with the owners, I found myself just smelling the cup of tea and letting the aroma enter my sinus cavities and down into my lungs, as if the tea aroma was cleansing my body in a form of catharsis. Oublier’s most famous and most complicated dessert to bake is the Italian Cannoli. It consist of a tube-shaped shell made from dough fried dark brown in the oven and then filled with a mix of mascarpone and/or ricotta cheese. Amy was not satisfied with the cheese you can find from the distributors, so she just decided to make it herself.
Finally, Oublier makes their own fruit drinks, sometimes adding fizz by themselves as well. I sampled a red mango and raspberry drink, and was constantly thinking to myself how many deciliters of fresh fruit actually went into making the drink, since it was very rich and full of flavor.
Oublier is very hidden behind some houses in Itaewon’s residential area, just a few hundred meters away from the other restaurants. Although it might be difficult to spot for potential customers, I think this is one of merits of Oublier. They have a few tables outside as well, and a little corner for pets.This makes Oublier not only a top-notch cafe, but also a great place to take your friends or date for a post-dinner glass of wine or three.
The name ”Oublier” comes from the same verb from French, meaning ”To forget”. It has a few other meanings as well, but for the owner it basically means that when you enter the cafe, the atmosphere will take you to another secluded spot where you can escape your daily worries for a few hours. This, it certainly succeeds in doing.
Info
Business hours: 11:30AM – 11PM (Closed Mondays)
Address: 서울특별시 용산구 이태원로23길 26-5 (Walk out of exit 1, Itawon stn, and take a right just after KFC. Take a left at Moghul Restaurant and a right up the stairs after restaurant My Chelsea. Follow the road for 2-3 minutes while looking at your right side. Soon you will see a building with a dark blue exterior and some big cutlery ornaments. That is your cue that you are at the right place!)
E-mail: conico@hanmail.net
Phone: 02-790-1224