Insadong Sujebi



Map of Insadong with the restaurant marked
Insadong is one of those areas that no traveler to Seoul can miss, whether they like it or not. In my experience, I was somewhat underwhelmed when I first visited Insadong. I had heard so much about this traditional area and expected traditional houses and people walking down the street wearing hanbok dresses and living their everyday lives. Well, such an area is a wee bit north, namely in Samcheong-dong, which I will have to cover in a whole different blog post. Suffice to say, Insadong specializes more on souvenir and clothes shopping than traditional housing. My first visit involved a walk down the main street and I got the feeling that this was one of the most touristic (in a non-authentic manner) spots in Seoul. What I had failed to do was to take a stroll in the mazelike alleys just next of the main street.

For here hidden restaurant gems are located. In spite of Insadong being a hub for tourists, the restaurants in these alleys are not particularly more expensive than elsewhere. You can get a decent meal for 5.000won and upwards. For that measly price you also get a chance to enjoy some rustic looking buildings and interiors which fling you back a few decades in time. One of these restaurants is called Insadong Sujebi. Sujebi is a Korean soup which is made of up hand-torn dough flakes, somewhat similar to dumplings or manduu but without the filling. The rest of the ingredients might vary by taste, but the soup usually is made of vegetables, kelp, dried anchovy and shellfish. The broth is simmered for several hours to extract all the flavor from the ingredients it is boiled with.
Seafood pajeon in the middle, joined by kimchi, radish soup, rice and the sujebi to the right

A very Spartan menu
The menu is minimalistic with e.g. spicy or non-spicy sujebi, seafood pajeon (Korean vegetable pancake) and different alcohols. The crunchy pajeon is also recommended and sharing one serving of sujebi and pajeon for two people left us wiggling out of the restaurant with full bellies after the meal. So on your next trip to Insadong, take a small detour and enjoy a few minutes of tranquility away from the hustle and bustle of the main shopping street.

(Address: 29-2 Gwanhun-dong Jongro-gu, Seoul. Tel: 02-735-3361)


Back to the roots in Yeongam-gun Gurim village


On the last weekend of November, 2012, South Korea’s Rural-20 project gave over 20 foreign students a glimpse of rural life in Korea and its history in Gurim village. The tour created bonds stretching all over the world and left us international students in awe of the beauty of rural Korea.


During a two-day, one-night tour to Gurim village located in Yeongam country in the South Jeolla province, more than 20 foreign students were given a unique chance to experience rural life of Korea as it looks today, as well as an enlightening tour on the history of Gurim village and how developments there propelled the history of Korea as a whole. This tourism course is a part of the Rural-20 Project developed by the South Korean Ministry of Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries in order to portray the marvels of rural villages to both Koreans and the rest of the world. Gurim village is one of around 20 select villages that can boast intact natural environments and traditions.

So why Gurim village? With a history dating back about 2200 years, the village certainly has exerted its influence throughout time both on Korea and adjacent countries. The relics of Doctor Wangin, who was a legendary scholar and essential to Japanese ancient culture, can today be found in Gurim village as well as the Yeongam Ceramic Museum which exhibits excavated ceramics that were once upon a time created in one of the ten firing stations in the area.

Our tour began in the best possible manner when I entered the bus, that would take us through Korea on a 4-hour ride, and noticed that the seats were much up to par with any business class airplane seats (this is strictly not speaking from experience since I have never been one of the lucky ones to get a free upgrade from economy to business class while flying…^^). Accompanying us was a tour guide whose mission was to translate all the information given by the local guides from Korean to English. During my time here in Korea this is the first time I have seen a tour where someone’s duty actually is to translate, which, safe to say, immensely contributed to my and other’s understanding of the local sites.

Upon arrival to Gurim village we were presented with an open buffet of bibimbap where we got to select and mix rice, a wide array of locally produced and picked vegetables, meat, red chili paste, sesame oil (and the list goes on…) in a manner that the locals named ‘Freestyle Bibimbap’ (probably named on the spot!)

After lunch it was due time to get married! Given Christianity’s wide spread in Korea there are today many weddings held in churches or in an originally ‘Western’ manner in wedding halls. However, still today there is a big part of the population who additionally or exclusively get wed in a more traditional, Korean fashion. In connection to the wedding experience we also got to try Korean traditional gowns known as hanbok (literally translated to ‘Korean clothing’). Today, these dresses that usually come in vibrant colors are mostly worn on special or formal occasions. The female version consists of a blouse shirt or jacket and a wrap-around skirt. Men’s hanbok consists of a shirt or jacket and pants which are characterized by its huge size to to make it ideal for the wearer to sit on the floor. Instructing the students on how to wear this hanbok and what etiquette to follow was a teacher or headmaster known as the hunjang. During the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties of Korea there were private village schools called seodang were these teachers taught primarily etiquette and literature to boys of 7-16 years of age. The teaching method emphasized rote by endless repetition of literary passages and through this a Korean idiom was born, namely 서당개 3년이면 풍월을 읊는다’ which freely translated means that even a dog can learn to recite poetry if it stays near one of these seodang schools for three years. During those days, corporal punishment was allowed, and our hunjang teacher looked mighty menacing strutting his wooden stick and pointing with it while explaining how to wear the hanbok, but of course he was only putting on a show.











Following the wedding, were two students who I hope are not regretting their decision were joined in holy matrimony, we got to try our hand at Korean paper crafts known as hanji. In much similar fashion to cooking shows were the chef already has prepared the most intricate steps in advance, we were presented with an adorable box made from thick, carton-like paper and were given the task to adorn it. The teachers provided the ever-so necessary aid to someone like me who might not have the deftest fingers around. The result, as you can see, was not something to be ashamed of and makes for a good gift for family or loved ones.

By this time some excess energy had been built up in the bodies of some of the more athletic students after these finicky paper crafts. What luck it was then that it was time to pound some rice with a mallet! Korean rice cake is usually made from repeatedly pounding steamed rice with a wooden mallet while adding water to prevent the rice cake from sticking to the surface. It certainly is a sight to see two skilled people co-operating to make finger licking delicious rice cake, but even an untrained layperson as myself gave that rice a beat down to remember!

Are you hungry yet? Well, so were we, and it was high time partake of the dinner served at the local restaurant. This time around the table was set with an uncountable number of side dishes, rice and soup as well as the icing on the cake on a Friday night, namely dongdongju. Dongdongju is traditional, milky-looking liquor which is brewed from rice, yeast, (flour) and water. Our table started out with three huge bowls of this locally brewed beverage but as the hours passed the bowls increased to a total of three bowls divided among four people. Safe to say it was an enjoyable night!

The evening continued at our lodging for the night which consisted of a few traditional Korean houses where all 24 of us were separated into smaller groups. The hosts were ever so caring and hospitable that they even let 10 of us sleep in the house they live in themselves. The houses were heated by so-called ondol heating which in the old days was utilized in Korean traditional architecture to heat the floor via a wooden fire under the house. The warm smoke travels through smoke passages, thus heating the floor from underneath before finally going out through a chimney. More info about the accommodation in Korean at http://ygurim.namdominbak.go.kr/




The following day was spent after having breakfast by visiting the Wang-in Korean traditional paper craft gallery directed by Suk-Sim Oh (more on Wang-in later in this post). Here an array of lamps, pictures, sculptures, furniture (!) and other crafts all made from paper were on display. Later we had the pleasure of visiting the Yeongam Ceramic Museum where ceramics and kilns excavated from the area are being exhibited. The most lasting image from the museum for me personally was the earthen coffins within which late people were put before the whole coffin was buried beneath the ground. Visitors can also have a go at making ceramics pieces themselves or just buy professional pieces from the home of the first glazed ceramics in Korea.
                           

 
Now, who might this Doctor Wangin that has been mentioned sparsely throughout this text be? Well, we got to visit the relics that were created to learn the spirit of Doctor Wangin and learned that he was a great scholar who moved to Japan and had a big effect on the development on culture in general in Japan, mainly so in the areas of arts, crafts and music. This attraction stands in honor of his memory and achievements and I refuse to spoil more here since I highly recommend you to visit and experience it firsthand instead.

















The trip was rounded up in good fashion at the Dogapsa temple which is located by Wolchul Mountain which attracts many hikers. The temple itself was founded by the monk Doseonguksa and the area includes many historic and cultural treasures. We got to walk 3 laps silently around the statue in front of the main temple building to clear ourselves of our sins (from a choice of 3, 7 or 106 laps!) Hosting a very picturesque nature and buildings, the temple area is sure worth a visit.

While signing up for this tour experience I had a few doubts and feared that I would dislike the rural area and start missing Seoul in just a few hours. On the contrary, upon departing from Yeongam towards Seoul, I felt that I could have easily stayed for quite some time longer. I feel more enlightened about rural Korea and proud to have taken part in something many urban Koreans never have. Well, now everyone has the chance thanks to the South Korean Ministry of Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries and their Rural-20 project. Tour packages come at the budget price interval of 10.000 to 39.000 won and span from one to two day periods. To sign up, visit http://www.rural20.kr/en/ (currently available in English, Korean, Japanese and Chinese) for deeper information.


Korean reststop food


Given Korea’s small area, taking the car or going by bus between cities, be it for business or leisure, is often an excellent choice when moving around in the country. Like mentioned before, if you are lucky with the traffic, a trip from the Seoul area down to Gwangju or Busan might only take about 5 hours. While traveling, Koreans never forget the motto ‘Getting there is half the fun’ and therefore they never fail to make frequent pit stops along the way. While taking intercity buses or going with tours, the driver usually stops every two hours for toilet visits and snack times. Now, in other countries these pit stop areas might differ from place to place but in Korea they are fairly homogeneous, and the food they have on offer there is what I will write about in this post.

First of all, what every rest stop has is a music store. Here the customer gets a chance to refill his CD or cassette library of Korean classics dating a few decades back. The stores usually pump their music on maximum volume which produces a lovely atmosphere for all of us who whole-heartedly enjoy this kind of music (no irony intended whatsoever……. ^^).

Secondly, the bigger pit stop stations offer Korean food cooked on order, which is similar to any other restaurant you can find in the cities, although a wee bit pricier. On the menu here are bibimbap, ramyeon, tonkatsu, kimbap, bulgogi etc. Adjacent to these restaurants are usually a small supermarket providing candy, chocolate and other snacks and drinks.

Thirdly, and quite uniquely for these rest stops are the food served through counters facing the parking area. Below is a snapshot of some of these snacks and the menu, which includes ddukbokki, “vegetable food stick”, chicken on-a-stick, sausage on-a-stick, fried potato balls, small pieces of fried chicken (called “popcorn chicken” here), deep-fried battered sausages, walnut pastries, dumplings, rice cake, toasts etc. etc. These dishes are somewhat similar to the street food in any big city, but some of these rest stops are actually famous nationwide for particular snacks and these areas are always bustling with life. So next time you travel within the country, do as the Koreans do and devour some of these beauties on-a-stick.